It was a beautiful, relatively cool day today so I decided to set out on a bicycle ride. I have been planning to buy a proper bicycle that has more than one speed as opposed to the Chinese specials which have been in the HF fleet for many years. They work just fine for getting around town, but I would like a new bicycle for longer rides. I have been hesitant to spend the money to get a proper bike because I wasn't sure I would really use it. So this afternoon, I decided to go for a longer ride and see if I am really interested in doing more riding.
I had a great ride from Vientiane to the Friendship bridge 17 km away. Traffic was light on Sunday afternoon and the sun was warm but not punishing. Being rainy season, the fields were a lush green and I enjoyed seeing the people enjoying their Sunday afternoon. I went a couple kilometers past the bridge until I found a shady spot on the Mekong where I could drink my water and gaze at the Thai landscape on the other side. It always amazes me to ponder how different life is on either side of this river. Two countries so close together but worlds apart.
After rehydrating and stopping to photograph the cows grazing in the post office yard, I set off on my 20 km trek back home. The sun was much less intense and I leisurely stopped to photograph the lush scenery and the Pepsi bottles guarding the entrance to the Pepsi factory. I was cruising along, when I heard a new noise which sadly did not fade with the passing car. Realizing that I had a flat tire, I stopped and started walking toward a nearby repair shop. Thankfully, repair shops are relatively ubiquitous in this land with lots of poorly constructed motorcycles.
At the repair shop, I was greeted by three men. Two of whom began working on my bicycle to assess the problem. The third reeked of alcohol and started talking to me non-stop in Lao language. I repeatedly told him that I only speak a little Lao and that I didn't understand most of what he was saying. He was undeterred, however, and kept rattling off. I tried to be show polite disinterest, but he persisted. My Lao language skills are enough to know that he was expressing his love to me and was pointing out the difference in our skin color. He repeatedly bowed to me and seemed to think I would be more responsive if he put his face two inches from mine and touched me intermittently. At one point he took to hitting me on the head. The guys who were working on my bicycle told him to leave me alone, but they weren't very insistent and he continued. I amusedly watched the repair of my bicycle hopeful that I could get away from this intoxicated man soon. At first, I chuckled when the patched tube popped when filled with air.
Unfortunately, my laughter disappeared as the repair of my bicycle drug on and I became increasingly annoyed with the drunk man. The men repairing my tire had been drinking, too, but were much less drunk than Mr. Obnoxious. Sadly, however, I think their mechanical skills were impaired. After taking an excessively long time putting the new tube in, they said I was ready to go. Much relieved, I happily paid and was ready to finish my afternoon ride. Before mounting, however, I noted the brakes did not work. Back for more tinkering. With that fixed, I jumped on to ride away, but then the chain fell off. Back to the shop with its wheels up. Somehow in the process of putting the chain back on, the new tire totally split down the seam. One man headed off on a motorcycle to find another new tube, but returned empty handed. In the mean time, drunk man had gone back to his preivous antics. An hour and a half later and with the sun heading toward the horizon, I decided that I wasn't going to get to finish my ride. They helped me hail a tuk-tuk and put my bicycle on top for the trip back to town. They did return the nice tip I had given them initially, but my tire still isn't repaired and I didn't get to finish my ride. Thankfully, though, the nice couple in the tuk-tuk was much more pleasant than the incessant yapping of the drunk man who blew smoke in my face and spilled his beer on me.
I love the Lao people, but I do not like this part of the culture. The abuse of alcohol is so pervasive and is considered an integral part of the culture. Alcohol is needed to have fun and there is little concern regarding the health or safety effects of excessive alcohol consumption. I don't even want to know the rates of drunk driving. It is pretty scary. When taking a social history about alcohol consumption, the residents always tell me he drinks "sometimes". When asked to clarify, the answer is "normal" or "when there is a party". From what I can tell "normal" is well beyond generally accepted levels for safe consumption. I wonder what the cost of this disease is in terms of loss of life and productivity.
Anyway, I'm glad to be home from my adventure. Given I have gone on two long bike rides and the bike has broken down both times, I think I will buy that new bike after all. The riding part was quite nice and I think it is an activity I would enjoy.
